A gringa's attempt to assimilate herself into the culture of vino consumption, killer fútbol, and Argentine advertising


Monday, February 14, 2011

Día de San Valentín (Besos y La Boca)

Happy Valentine's Day to all out there!

Talk about a disputed day. Some say it's purely a Hallmark holiday based on commercialism. Some get romantic and use the day to dive deep into cheese-dom (such as my Valentine). I just hope some can find passion for something or someone amidst the fog of pink and red. After all when it comes down to it, I think the individual gets to decide how she or he wants to show love for a special person, moment, activity or possession, not a corporation or societal norms.

Speaking of disputation! The novelty of La Boca... to love or not to love?

A set stage on Caminito
It's a question without a clear-cut answer. I personally felt I was in the heart of tourism during my visit to the very most Southern part of Buenos Aires. This sentiment probably is a result of the stark contrast we observed walking from a nicer part of the city, San Telmo, through the streets of La Boca to its main attraction (aside from the Boca fútbol stadium), el Caminito.

[History sidenote: La Boca was where the Italian and Spanish immigrants alike used to hangout because it was a major port.  However the yellow fever came along and the wealthier Spanish abandoned the Italian population for the more isolated, and thus healthier, regions in the North.]

La Boca is rumored to be the most dangerous part of town, and with reason. It hosts the largest crime rate in the city. El Caminito though is a little safe haven for those tourists who go to see the 'authentic,' brightly painted buildings and tango culture. My impression? El Caminito may be based on true love, but in hardly any way is it authentic. The paint was too touched up, the stores were all identical selling staple shot glasses and postcards, and performers were lurking around every corner waiting to make a buck off you for a picture (ask some of the people on my program!).


Some graffiti a ways away from Caminito
La Boca's genuine atmosphere? Well, that's much better represented by the condition of its bridges and port. There's no getting around the fact that there's more poverty here and that it's not as well kept as the other parts of Buenos Aires. However, I found a subtle charm in the laid back market stands and relaxed restaurants further from Caminito that exposed Boca's true (navy and yellow) colors. As for the smell of waste, not so much.  

The port, water pollution included.

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