A gringa's attempt to assimilate herself into the culture of vino consumption, killer fútbol, and Argentine advertising


Saturday, March 12, 2011

I'm Bringing Blogging Back (Yeah)

[Anyone get that title song reference? Anyone, anyone?]

I just wished my Dear adieu at the airport this evening. Our week hosted a whirlwind of events that took us from an ultimate tournament in Monte Hermoso to the coast of Montevideo to a milonga (tango dance hall) in Buenos Aires. I quickly immersed the jet-lagged boy in rapid Castellano and Argentine culture (hello besos!) only to realize that such an effort was necessary in order to take advantage of the limited time we had.

So looking on the bright side of it all, with my goodbye to CJ comes my return to ze blog... which means more recommendations, more advice, more stories, and more abstract, sometimes illogical (or maybe just higher-thinking), metaphors. Time to kick-start this thing again after a minor stall. Mi culpa.

I'm going to hold off on my report of my spring break (aka last week) for now. I need a little more time to dwell and process the Oz-like hurricane that placed me somewhere magical for a temporary time. And as soon as I can put the emerald bits of information I learned from last week into words, better believe you guys will read about it.


As for now, I posted some eye candy for all to view! It's good to be back!

 A lil peck under the rubber trees in BA.
'Espiritud' before a game of beach ultimate.
Bracing for biking down the coast.
Fresh seafood paella. Go on, let your mouth water.

Thursday, March 3, 2011

From Argentina, With Love

Dearest Followers,

I have decided to write to you under the pretense of a stressful day, or I guess more just a stressful morning. I got to wait in line for the International Post Office of Argentina today for my third attempt to pick-up my long-awaited Valentine's gift. Yes, Valentine's day gift. As in, it was delivered in mid-February. The complication? Good question. Our director said it'd be best to send our packages to her office address to avoid just that. Mmmmm, not so much. Rather, the package is now in her name and with her address, but intended for me.

So after waiting for a good hour in the sweltering herd of mail-less residents and foreigners, my number flashed up on the board. I eagerly walked up only to be informed by the stern man in the booth that one form of my director's identification and her signature was not enough to obtain the package. Then I got the stamp of rejection, followed by a wave-off and a "Quien sigue?!"

I'm convinced the postal office is Argentina's second army, protecting foreign invasions on perceived state possessions. I can't decide whether I should accept defeat and be the system's prisoner or march onward. I will probably make a more strategic decision when I'm not as sleep-deprived, however that seems to be a constant trend here.

So, this long letter to say- think twice before sending a package to me or a loved one in Argentina. Actually, I'll cut out a level of thinking and just advise you not to send a package at all. Let the person know how much you love them two-dimensionally or with words. Don't leave it up to a postal soldier worker.

At least I can look forward to another gift in transit.. United is transporting the Ceej as I write. And while I'm making yet another effort to go to the airport and wait to pick him up, I refuse to let someone stand between me and my man.

Sincerely,
Anna

Tuesday, March 1, 2011

More with Less

"There's never enough time to do all the nothing you want." 
- Bill Watterson, Calvin and Hobbes

Preach it, Watterson. This quote is the essence of my time spent in Córdoba. It was an overly welcome trip with too few days.

Two essays down, 10 hours of bus-riding to go.
After unwinding on a 360 degree reclining chair for 10 hours on an 'El Practico' bus, my group arrived in Córdoba. We rushed from the bus station to our hostel (Baluch Backpackers) to meet the guide for our day's relaxing excursion. Seems to be a contradiction, no?

Within 30 minutes we checked in, changed clothing, slathered on (what we learned much later was not enough) sun tan lotion and met our guide, Paula. She drove us two hours out into the mountains and we began our hike through the 'Parque Nacional Quebrada del Condorito.'

A breath of fresh air indeed. I never realized how conditioned I was to inhaling the smoke from the cigarettes of porteños (as if the burning sticks were extensions of their hands) and transportation fumes. I smelled elements -rustling grass, open air, running water- not pollution hovering between towering buildings. The tall grass and mighty rocks surrounding me didn't take my breath away. Rather, they gave me fresh air to breath in.

At the look-out point, the sun slowly burning my skin.
We hiked the entire day through elevated 'Sierras' with a stunning lookout marking the midpoint of the trip. We saw waterfalls and 'Los Gigantes' mountains ahead of us. Hawks soared above keeping eye on their territory. We weren't fortunate enough to catch glimpse of a condor since they are low in number, but the landscape didn't cease to astound us.

Quebrada put El Tigre into better context for me. I realized we had to make much more of an effort to escape the city and relax- yet another contradiction. But at least I had this epiphany with enough time for us to plan more weekend trips. I've made a conscious decision to accept all of the 'nothing' I can get this trip. In other words, I've made it my priority to fill more time with fewer activities, and thus waste less time stressing.

Max, Amy, Me, Alyssa and Kylie in Bedrock. 

Friday, February 25, 2011

Patience, Past (experiences), Progress

The brain juice is quite low, but I'm happy to report that I finished two papers in two days for my Gender and Journalism classes here! I had to go straight from hosting Maddie to exercising my poor little brain neurons. So, I decided I'd backtrack to the fine days of hosting before my papers snuck up on me like that evil gnome in the Travelocity commercials.

[Side ponder: What's that gnome's story anyway? Is he a gentler character like Doc the dwarf or just an all out creep? I bet he'd whip up some fine cookies, cue Keebler, if he'd take a break from his travels.]

I've been in BA for a total of 41 days, something hours and whatever minutes! Maddie's visit gave tangible significance to this fact when I had to use my time and experience here to choose activities and show her around.

I spoke Spanish as we easily maneuvered our way around the city and in the company of someone from home, noticed the seemingly little, yet now decent, progress I've made:
You want to talk about fruits of labor?
Try this mystery seeded fruit. 
-I can hold a conversation with a taxi cab driver for more than 10 minutes
-I can better decipher the overly complicated Guia T in order to decide which of the 1,000s of collectivos (bus) to take, WHICH includes reading a map!
-I can chat with my ever-changing deskmen who wish me a 'buen día' o 'buenas tardes' each time I enter or leave
-I've adopted customs, such as only hailing 'Radio' taxis, knowing the exact amount to tip for whichever service, and ordering large coffees instead of my usual 'tall' because Argentina's grande < Starbuck's tall.

All these examples to say, I'm beginning to see the light! So help me God!

Epiphany moment at the mimicked gates of Jerusalem in Parque Norte
Okay no, but in reality? I am seeing some fruits of my labor (albeit probably small clementines or blueberries instead of grapefruits and melons), but I know I've still got plenty of time for more growing (or harvesting?).

Check out the A-list for stellar additions from my time spent with Maddie. And stay tuned for a post about Córdoba after this weekend!

Tuesday, February 22, 2011

Getting Her to First Base (according to Anna)

Everyone has to have a first. 

My dear friend Maddie from Mizzou has been visiting me in Buenos Aires for the past five days. I decided to interview her about her experience, and found that our first series of days (full of nerves, exhaustion and feeling foreign) have unsurprisingly mirrored one another's...

A Chat with Madeline (sworn in with the Guia T Bolsillo aka the city bus guidebook):

Q: Why did you come a weekend early to visit me? Neglecting how cool I am, of course.
A: Because I thought it'd be a blast to spend time in BA with mi mejor amiga (my best friend), and I'd have no better way to kick off my own trip.

Q: How did you feel your very first day here?
A: Well somewhere during the 10 hour flight, I got a little terrified when I realized I had to find my own way to your apartment. It got a little overwhelming... especially when there were no taxis in sight in the middle of a downpour (welcome to Buenos Aires). I learned to take it one step at a time and then it's more manageable.

Q: Have you felt a progression within these five days?
A: Abso-freaking-lutely! I definitely realized that language has so much to do with confidence when you're speaking, and that you need to be humble about the fact that you don't know everything about the language, yet confident that you will learn eventually. 

Q: Have you refined your expectations for your own trip?
A: I probably came in with the expectation that things would be a lot smoother than they have been or will be. Now I expect that I'll probably order food at the wrong place, or the wrong food at the right place, or something completely disgusting. Basically that there's no way to survive if you can't laugh at yourself at the end of the day. I've also become more comfortable with the fact that I'll have bad days.

Q: What are you most excited about for when you head to the land of wine, mountains and... wine, aka Mendoza?
A: I'm most excited about all the people I'm about to meet. Not just the people in my group, but my host family and the people I'll be taking classes with. 

Q: Do you feel you're capable of preparing the entire city of Mendoza for my arrival come May? 
A: If anyone can do it, it's definitely me. I have all the rumors of the American red-head ready for circulation.

[No follow-up question to that.]

Q: Back to Buenos Aires, what has been the most 'A-HA!' moment you've had thus far?
A: THIS is how I withdraw cash.

Q: The most nerve-wrecking?
A: OH MY GOD, I can't withdraw cash.

Q: And finally, what has been your favorite experience in Buenos Aires?
A: NO offense to you (there was some taken), but my favorite experience was the day I spent alone in BA... which I credit all to you because I couldn't have been as prepared at finding out everything as quickly if I hadn't had your help. It just felt liberating to take a bus where I wanted to go and have fun there, you know wandering around until I found something unique. 
We would put Dora to shame.

Q: Anything else you'd like to add, missy?
A: Thank god I had such a talented, beautiful, intelligent, crazy friend to show me the way to first base. 

[No I did not pay her to say that. However, was it muttered with a hint of sarcasm? Perhaps...]

To read her own perspective of 'Getting Her to First Base', see Maddie's blog! 


Wednesday, February 16, 2011

Moda de Argentina Part II: Style

So I've realized that in order to dissect Argentine fashion, I first need to try and generally define its characteristic traits. It's like human anatomy. Without describing the overall state of the body (age, gender, height, etc.), how will the juicy details (such as how damaged the hair is and placement of beauty marks) make sense? Okay, I realize that metaphor was a stretch, but you know the point I'm trying to make. So, here goes my attempt to roughly describe the style in Argentina before looking deeper at its parts that make up the whole.

Fashion Tip #2: Try hard to look like you're not trying at all.
[Disclaimer: this post may be generation-biased. Folks above the age of 30 certainly can indulge in Argentine style, however you may want to take caution with skirt lengths and the like.]
Hot shot
The situation: The temperatures are rising and so are the standards for fashion during the summer. Personally, I find it harder to be fashion-forward during these sweltering months because I can't rely on my trusty layering strategy. Instead, you have to make one or two pieces interesting with accessories, beauty techniques or simply standing alone. It's an art, I must say, because when you look hot (literally sweating and panting for some air conditioning), you look like you've tried too hard.
 The solution: Suck it up, wear what you want and face the climbing degrees. I've seen many a girl in skinny jeans or leggings this past month holding their heads high and strutting as if they were invincible to weather and fashion critics.
The compromise: I've seen many an airy dress and peasant top here, of which I've most definitely embraced. However, to make the outfit altogether more interesting, I suggest one rely on color, shape or pattern. No pattern is too crazy in Argentina and shapes can help you play with your natural bodily proportions (for instance, I like to dress myself tall with high-waisted shorts). Not to mention, bright colors compliment vacation-tanned skin on the women and men here. So go on, wear your tank-top and shorts (yes, shorts DO exist in Argentina. I don't know where that rumor stemmed from), just branch out and stay cool. After all, who wants to look like style doesn't come naturally?
Limeade may be my new favorite summer accessory.
property of: Scott Schuman

Monday, February 14, 2011

Día de San Valentín (Besos y La Boca)

Happy Valentine's Day to all out there!

Talk about a disputed day. Some say it's purely a Hallmark holiday based on commercialism. Some get romantic and use the day to dive deep into cheese-dom (such as my Valentine). I just hope some can find passion for something or someone amidst the fog of pink and red. After all when it comes down to it, I think the individual gets to decide how she or he wants to show love for a special person, moment, activity or possession, not a corporation or societal norms.

Speaking of disputation! The novelty of La Boca... to love or not to love?

A set stage on Caminito
It's a question without a clear-cut answer. I personally felt I was in the heart of tourism during my visit to the very most Southern part of Buenos Aires. This sentiment probably is a result of the stark contrast we observed walking from a nicer part of the city, San Telmo, through the streets of La Boca to its main attraction (aside from the Boca fútbol stadium), el Caminito.

[History sidenote: La Boca was where the Italian and Spanish immigrants alike used to hangout because it was a major port.  However the yellow fever came along and the wealthier Spanish abandoned the Italian population for the more isolated, and thus healthier, regions in the North.]

La Boca is rumored to be the most dangerous part of town, and with reason. It hosts the largest crime rate in the city. El Caminito though is a little safe haven for those tourists who go to see the 'authentic,' brightly painted buildings and tango culture. My impression? El Caminito may be based on true love, but in hardly any way is it authentic. The paint was too touched up, the stores were all identical selling staple shot glasses and postcards, and performers were lurking around every corner waiting to make a buck off you for a picture (ask some of the people on my program!).


Some graffiti a ways away from Caminito
La Boca's genuine atmosphere? Well, that's much better represented by the condition of its bridges and port. There's no getting around the fact that there's more poverty here and that it's not as well kept as the other parts of Buenos Aires. However, I found a subtle charm in the laid back market stands and relaxed restaurants further from Caminito that exposed Boca's true (navy and yellow) colors. As for the smell of waste, not so much.  

The port, water pollution included.