A gringa's attempt to assimilate herself into the culture of vino consumption, killer fútbol, and Argentine advertising


Friday, April 29, 2011

The Beginning of the End: So Long to Work

My final words on my internship experience in Buenos Aires:

Reenacting my voice-over of M
at the Samsung event.
I thoroughly enjoyed both my internships this semester. I got to develop the exact skills I stated as preference prior to the trip and more. In addition to delving into graphic design, I was fortunate enough to see the process of launching a Website during my time at Artemisa Noticias and the organization of two entire marketing campaigns while at Avant-Garde.

Sitting pretty at the J&J 'Lideres'
event.












I learned so much without attending an overly populated lecture, sitting patiently as a professor demonstrated Adobe programs on a projector, or cracking open a dull textbook. Rather, I got to witness and contribute to all the hard work that went into two campaigns' events of which I also got to attend. I got to meet professional graphic designers, and learned about the blessing and curses of freelance. I collaborated with marketing geniuses (in my opinion) in a new culture under Spanish instruction. I researched like mad and learned an intriguing ideology that realizes a relationship between women and nature that I was more than excited to promote.

I was given two fruitful opportunities and squeezed as much juice from them as I could.
At Avant-Garde with my 'jefes,' Laura and Matías
My portside office (and classroom) for Artemisa Noticias

Sunday, April 24, 2011

The Devil in the Jungle

I've just returned from Iguazu, one of the most highly ranked trips during my four-month binge here. I've never seen anything so foreign, so exotic, so mesmerizing before. I'd never been in the jungle, surrounded by diverse greenery, towering trunks and growling water. I look back at the photos I just uploaded and still can't fathom the beauty.

I stuck Iguazu at the top of my 'to-visit' list when I was in research mode before my trip. The picture in the Lonely Planet was like a little portal into my future because I knew I would end up there somehow. And there I visited.

But it wasn't just a visit, it was an adventure. I legitimately felt like Dora as I suited up in cargo shorts, my hiking shoes and long wool socks each day. All I needed was a bowl cut and a talking purple backpack.

We may not have hiked far from the paved path, but it's crazy the experience you gain with incredible natural scenery and activities among it. And it's probably better I didn't get too ambitious, seeing as something in that jungle already didn't get along with my skin... it was a quick turn from a Nick cartoon to an episode of Lost as an irritation slowly grew on my skin throughout the trip. The source looked like bites, but spread like a rash.

I couldn't let it stop me though as we experienced the best of it all! The most daunting, the most astounding, the most inexplicably beautiful, yet sinister natural wonder: The Devil's Throat (dun, dun, duuuuuuuuuuuun).

We saved it for the last day. I don't know how, but we dealt with the anticipation, and held out with other activities and the views of San Martín's falls. Finally the day came with dark grey clouds that slowly ate up the sky. It followed us as we walked to the Throat and blew us around. I swear it was as if the Devil were reincarnated right before my eyes and was trying to push me into its throat to swallow me, red headband and all. The wind kept blowing and soon enough, rain fell. We resisted the Devil's attempts to enter his throat or exit his hell (the National Park), instead just standing and staring down the infinitely misting mass of water.


It was the extremely large number of tourists that eventually drove us out. We maneuvered our way through the crowd of ponchos, to the train station, and finally on a bus back to town. We survived.

As for my skin? Well, that may be a different story as I use excessive amounts of itch-relief creme and will myself from touching the inflamed areas. Fortunately it doesn't come close to tainting the unforgettable experiences I had with the Jungle and the Devil this past weekend... all in time for Pascua! Happy Easter!


Wednesday, April 20, 2011

To Be Continued...

Sorry for the lack of posts once again. I'm in a rush to pack and get ready for my trip to Iguazu this long weekend, splishing and splashing my way North. I pinkey-swear (meaning a more serious dedication than promise or swear) to update you folk when I get back.

Hasta luego.... bébe.

Saturday, April 16, 2011

Creeping Clocks

The point has come in the trip where my group has broken out the bucket list as our individual countdowns commence and time ticks. I'm hearing the end tick nearer each day, still a daze, yet dangerously close.. as if I were a ship captain on high alert for a large crocodile in Neverland (which just so happens to perfectly explain Buenos Aires and its seemingly infinite city borders).

Tick-tock, tick-tock, tick-tock...

We've started muttering the dreaded 'final' before certain activities. I'll know the trip is legitimately getting eaten up when I insert 'final' before daily scheduled events and habits.

Tick-tock, tick-tock, tick-tock...

But such is life. There are some anticipated finals and some that can't be planned in advance. So, in appreciation of our awareness of the end in this case, we've been making lists, checking them twice, finding out which activities are worthy and nice.

Anna's 'Final' BA List: (in ascending order of importance)

1. Final colectivo ride... my friend and enemy through it all. With ample preparation, colectivos transported me cheaply, quickly and with a story to tell the majority of the time (more to come later).

2. Final shopping ventures, for selfish and gracious reasons... I've done well collecting appropriate souvenirs for those back home (I'll keep it ambiguous) over time and markets, yet still have those few left who prove tough to buy for because I'm too much a perfectionist. As for me, I'm looking to return with a leather sling bag or jacket, several bottles of wine, and of course, unbeatable additions to my wardrobe.

Sanjuanino's empanadas! 
3. Final medialuna, empanada, steak, glass of wine... It'll be hard to part with these now integral parts to my diet. Okay, maybe not the steak so much, but better believe those fluffy pastries and stuffed bites have been the focal point of my cravings by now.

4. Final workday at Avant-Garde... despite the 3 hours of commuting I do each day to reach the office, I've fallen in love with my internship there. Not only have I been assigned creative and meaningful projects, but I've also had the honor of working alongside friendly and hilarious Argentines. The open environment full of conversation, laughs, burning incense and Martín's DJ jams will be sorely missed.

Hold on just one second... (disclaimer:
I am wearing rolled up shorts, not a diaper.)
5. Final ultimate game with Sapukay... as I blogged before, Sapukay is my Argentine family here. Granted I only see them on the weekends, I feel most comfortable spending time on and off the field with them. That last game isn't just going to kick my ass (since work has left me with less time to keep that bodybuilding form of mine), but slap me with the harsh reality... I'm leaving Buenos Aires without guarantee of return, and definitely never in this same situation.

MU J-School in Buenos Aires 2011
6. Final goodbyes to friends, teammates, doormen, colleagues, bosses, professors... this process of salutations includes the aforementioned Avant-Garde-ians and Sapukeños, but also: Carolina (my program's director and class professor), my apartment's numerous doormen who wish me a "Buen día! Ah, que linda!", and Alejandro (the professor who helped us first transition into Buenos Aires and learn its own language that some call Spanish). Each individual has painted my trip with a different color and made it as unique an experience as it has been.

7. Final time together as an 'equipo' in Buenos Aires... these are the last weeks, days, moments before returning to Columbia and loosening the strings that wove us so tightly here. It'll be an unraveling of sorts, soon to create something new, but just as special whether solely based on shared history or given room to weave more intricate connections.

Wednesday, April 13, 2011

¡Feliz Cumpleaños!

To Katharine Burkland:
[aka my best friend
 aka my sister from another mother
 aka my other half]
Since I couldn't hand you a physical card myself, I hope this suffices!
I've known you almost my entire life, and definitely all of your (now) twenty years. There are no words to describe the part you play in my theatrical life. You're my balance, my sanity, the right side to my brain.. that's the logical side, right? I hope you have a fantastical day, eventful enough to celebrate two decades of being wonderful. Cheers to the parents, as well. Love you and miss you! We'll be sure to have a joint party when I get back.  

Monday, April 11, 2011

Bitten (Food Trials in Argentina)

When it comes to discovering a new culture, nothing beats trying its food. Breakfasts, lunches and dinners. Midday and late night snacks. Classy restaurants and spontaneous picnics. Packed office lunches and habitual cravings. Savory experiences and quick bites.

Study Abroad Special: Grilled culture spiced with local tastes, served up with a side of guilt-free consumption.

Alright, let's get Argentina-specific. Don't get me wrong, Argentina is massive and diverse. This much is evident by my trips to Bariloche and Córdoba, and my time spent here in Buenos Aires so far. However, some bites remain consistent along all Argentina's internal borders. I've taken the hardship of trying each dish and snack in order to better report what gets Argentine bellys a-growlin'.

Time to dish!

Choripan & Fernet: Grilled Sausage sliced and placed in
baguette bun. A strong licorice liqour that is often mixed with Coke.
Medialunas, Fresh OJ & Café con Leche: Fluffier versions of
croissants that come in either sweet or salty versions. Juice straight
from the peel. Espresso mixed with milk for a lighter wake-up.
Empanadas: Argentine hotpockets that host a variety of flavors
easily identified by the way in which the crust is closed and secured. 
Parilla: A grilling technique that encompasses a range of meat cuts
and veggies. You name it, you can grill it, but steak reigns supreme.
Other noteworthy bites (that may be followed up with pictures! per usual, stay tuned)-
-Jamón y queso tostadas: Ham and cheese sandwiched between thin white bread and grilled. Suitable snacks or light lunches best paired with café con leche.
-Cacahuetes dulces: Peanuts heated within a sugary syrup. I dare you to pass by a street vendor's cart and resist the overwhelming smell that perfectly exemplifies temptation.
-Mate: A strong herbal tea that has a meticulous set-up, but lasting result. No mate cup is complete without a tall thermos of hot water to continuously fill it up depending on the group size or energy demand.

One last cultural order. Argentine food and drinks are ordered to share. I've learned this lesson most from spending time with ultimate peeps and working alongside my Avant-Garde colleges. Everything is fair for grab... or better put, a reciprocal endeavor.

[P.S.- I'd just like to say, I'm very proud of my boy for winning his past TWO ultimate tournaments in KC. I hope he's ready to hit up some bbq when I get back.. okay, that is all.]

Snap and Soak

Our study abroad program's trip to Bariloche was a whirlwind of surreal views printed for postcards, following a reporter like hatched ducklings, three-course fondue dips, and group 'glue-ing'. This 72-hour guided adventure hosted the most activities I've done in the smallest amount of time here. I'd be lying if I said I wasn't overwhelmed about writing about it, especially since so much of the trip was visual. Hence the photocollage I put together in order to convey in the best way I could how my trip to Bariloche went.

Every sight was photo-worthy. It was a mixture of events that swirl around in my memory as sparkling aquamarine waters, warm mahogany wood, and living greenery. The air was pure and the town was serene in wake of the vacation season. The tap water tasted like Brita and the food was rich in flavor and diversity (well, I guess any region seems diverse as long as it offers something other than empanadas and medialunas). 

I sweated out stress sitting in the hotel's hot tubs, and then soaked in the brisk purity during our outside excursions. Bright scenery and coffee were my trusty companions, along with the sweet breakfasts from the included buffet, as I fought sleep-deprivation by the hour. A 15-passenger van was our vehicle to sites, interviews, visits and cat naps. Carolina and Hans, a well-known reporter in Bariloche, teamed up to schedule this itinerary unlike any I'd had before. 

Overall, Bariloche was gorgeous and unusually refreshing considering our hurried schedule and lack of nature hikes. I'm sure it's rampant with visitors during high tourist tide (aka the months of summer and winter), but with obvious reason. 

I guess sometimes you have to be a tourist to observe beauty, however I think it takes more energy to then appreciate it as a result. It'd be a crime to hit a location and run. Let's call it 'snap (as in photos) and step (away).' No, this wise idea is not to be confused with the legendary 'bend and snap' as patented by Elle Woods. Rather, I advise one should visit a place in order to learn something new or experience culture instead of simply staying cooped up in a hotel and taking photos at the overly trodden sites. 'Snap and step' or 'snap and soak'. The choice is yours.             

Friday, April 8, 2011

Gaucho Guide

I have always found the country to be extremely relaxing. Our family has its own slice of rural heaven in Galena, IL. It's a quaint historical town with breathtaking views and a plethora of farms. After many a peaceful visit to our family friends' house up there, my parents followed in the Fitzsimmons' footsteps and purchased a house in Galena about five years ago. We read, eat well, sway in hammocks, creak in rocking chairs, hike and kayak.

And Galena was about as close to 'farm-life' as I got before the Smylies' trip to an estancia (ranch) outside Buenos Aires. Before the four visiting Smylies even had a chance to inhale the polluted air of the city, a van swept us away from the airport to the lovely countryside about an hour and a half outside the skyscrapers and colectivos. From there we were greeted by a proper British accent welcoming us with a bright hello. Totty Pease, along with her husband James, owns El Roble (The Oak) estancia. Her back story is great, especially spoken in that charming accent of hers. I'm going to leave it for her to tell and you to find out.

However I will let you in on the secrets to living the life of a gaucho (Argentine cowboy) that I discovered during my two and a half day stay.

Anna's How to Live the Life of a (Pampered) Gaucho Guide:


Martín working a parilla (see #1)
1. Always stay well-fed. This includes enjoying juicy parillas (a mixture of grilled cuts of meat) and hand-made carbs, i.e. pasta. After all, how would the gaucho reap his rewards for raising fine cattle?
Cattle of the Sexes (See #2)

2. Recognize the difference between Macho (male) and Embrya (female). Yes, I'm actually encouraging sexism in this case. You don't want any hanky-panky between those 9-months, so after vaccinating each one, a gaucho must separate them accordingly into their respective pen.


Sleeping tight (See #4)
3. Understand Spanish orders before nodding in agreement. I may or may not have learned this lesson the hard way when our head-gaucho, Martín, quickly ordered me to.. do something or other having to do with lados (sides).. and proceeded to gallop off assuming I knew to help guide the vacas (cows). Then chaos ensued as Rachel and I stood in the wake of a massive herd of cattle trotting toward us with Totty, Lauren and my parents behind them. The cattle got confused and veered off the right path toward a water hole, thus creating more work for poor Martín to do. Oopsies.

4. Rest up, buttercup. It's best to have a plush bed suited with down pillows and blankets in order to ensure deep sleep before rising early for another day's 'work' and a delicious breakfast (see step #1).

5. Keep good company. I recommend finding wonderful estancia owners, such as Totty and James, to host or hire you. Martín, the head-gaucho, Viviana, the A-list cook, and Toto, Viviana's rambunctious son, also served as an authentic, humbling crowd. And I can't forget my peers on horses- my family.
James and Martín riding back (see #5.)

Monday, April 4, 2011

Take Five in Buenos Aires

Say hello to my family, the Smylie family. We have...
Poppa Smylie: the lovable, nutty graduate professor who masters a balance of wit and goofiness.

Mumsie Smylie: the sugar-momma who intimidates in the courtroom, but sheds her 'shark fins' for great conversation and caring outside of it.

Sister Lauren: the brunette, eldest daughter who shepherds fifth-graders by day and stirs up a laugh from anyone.

Sister Rachel: the blonde, youngest daughter who spits strong opinions, while remaining completely irresistible in all aspects (as evident by her acceptance to USC! Congratulations!).

Yours truly: the redheaded, midzie daughter who starves for creative endeavors although has slightly hypochondriac tendencies, but only because she cares (maybe too much).

They all reunited to visit me because they missed me as much as... Danny missed Sandy and those summer nights, cats miss alleys to jazz with one another, naked beds miss their sheets on laundry days... Okay, I'm exaggerating. I'm sure they missed me quite a bit, but I also provided a great destination for family vacation! Which consisted of:
-an Estancia weekend stay
-pool lounging and book reading
-my 21st celebration (wine tasting, shopping, tasty dinner and a drag queen club)
-an ultra-ritzy tango show ('Tango Rojo')
-loads of pounce and bananagrams
Here's what my family had to say about it...

A Chat with the Smylie Gang: (performed pool-side, chomping on empanadas)

Q: In your vacationing experience, where does BA rank?
L: At the top for many reasons. The hotel experience was re-donk-ulous, so many things to do. We were always discovering new areas.
R: Ditto. We've done the most different things, not just sit on our booty.

Q: How was the transition from country to city? Overwhelming?
M: The estancia was relaxing. We could decompress form traveling for 12 hours.
R: I liked riding horses.
D: Easy. The experiences were different in various ways but both places felt very cared for.
R: And I'm officially and experienced horseback rider.

Q: Do you guys feel more like city slickers or country peeps at heart?
L: Duh, city. At least if full time, then city slickers.
M: In general, yes, but we enjoy the country for getaways.

Mounted and ready to herd some cattle!
Q: Who best mastered the life of a gaucho? 
[Lauren and Rachel both raise hands simultaneously]
L: I guess Rachel wins.
M: But I did the best at smacking booty (referring to the time when we helped corral cattle through a narrow stall in order to get vaccinated)
R: I win, I win, I win!

Q: What moment did you feel most cuddly as a family?
L: Your birthday dinner when we were playing with food.
R: I felt cuddly on the cab ride home with you (referring to the conclusion of my 21st birthday...)
M: I thought it was cool when Rachel heard about USC and we were all jumping around laughing and crying.
D: When that guy missed Lauren's head at the tango (referring to when a male dancer almost karate kicked Lauren's head while jumping off the stage. more like an AH! not an AW! moment.)

Q: What are you a) physically and b) figuratively going to brink back with you? Think souvenirs and memories.
R: My doll, and that I'll have to one-up you now with a studying abroad destination. I think we're going to Venezuela! (to be continued- Hugo Chavez interviews the Smylies on Álo Presidente!)
Getting cuddly with some mate.
L: Ugh, Argentinean dudes- don't look at 'em, don't go out. Tell them that you have a boyfriend and he's on his way. Oh and a confirmation that we have to go on family trips like this every year.
D: Bringing back photographs and a hefty bill.
M: An affirmation of how wonderful our family is.

Q: Did you have any myths about BA confirmed or busted here?
R: I thought it was going to be Brazil.
M: The myths about men are true, although they are pretty.
L: And aggressive, non discreet
D: I don't know if it's a myth or not, but one thing I realized is that it's a pretty new city, relatively. Also busted that dad couldn't stay awake past 9:30 at night.
M: More than two nights in a row! (Quite the feat, let me tell you)

Q: Any final words?
L: We don't want to go, we're sad..
D: It was wonderful being able to come and see you here.

And it was splendid having you guys here too!

Sunday, April 3, 2011

Anna's Web (Sans lonely pig)

It's safe to say I've been busy the past two weeks. Between writing papers (round II), spending time with the ultimate gang, visiting an estancia, hosting my family and celebrating my 21st birthday... well, unfortunately my blog has suffered in lack of content. But on the bright side, although I may have slipped on updating you guys promptly, I still have plenty of stories to share. I mean, there's enough stories involving one Smylie in Buenos Aires... So imagine the gang of five Smylies reuniting for a rendezvous here. Yep, exactly.

I hope to cover these topics as I race to blog before leaving for Bariloche tomorrow morning:
1. My family's stay (interview included)
2. Living life like a gaucho
3. Argentine bites

Then of course once I return from our program's included 'media excursion' to Bariloche and then spend an entire day attending events for my marketing agency, I'll have even more to catch up on. There goes that whole time dilemma again. I find myself amidst pending events that fly past during a seemingly infinite-lasting trip. The challenges, frustration and lessons to be learned slow time down, while hosting friends and family, city escapes and work procrastination accelerate it. I'm just trying to catch all the precious moments in this woven web of foreign events before they flee me.

[Insert maniacal laugh here as to imitate a vicious black spider hungry for some prey. Assuming or pretending that spiders, in fact, laugh of course.]